Bandaging for Small Animals
Goals:
1. Provide a protective barrier and keep wound clean
2. Hold a dressing in place and speed healing (new tissue growth)
3. Prevent further injury
4. Absorb exudate and debride the wound
5. Serve as a vehicle for therapeutic agents
Bandaging is an important part of nursing care!
Bandaging can also:
1. provide support for bony anatomy
2. secure splints
3. prevent weight bearing
4. provide compression to control hemorrhage, dead space, and tissue edema
5. discourage self grooming (whether or not it's actually protecting a wound)
6. restrict motion (Robert Jones)
7. provide patient comfort (Robert Jones)
8. provide an aesthetic appearance (covers KE pins and clamps)
9. Acts as support and/or injury preventive, such as exercise wraps in horses
Types of bandaging layers (absolute minimum):
1. Primary layer – contacts body tissue and wound surface; adherent (dry) or non adherent (wet/moist)
2. Secondary layer – padded conforming layer; absorbent, supports wound
3. Tertiary layer – holding and protective layer; holds bandage in place and protects bandaging (must stay dry but still allow air passage to underlying tissues)
Hints for Care of the Bandage:
1. A nicely presented bandage will give an owner the idea of how bandage should be kept
clean and dry when they take the animal home
1. For walking dogs in rain or wet grass - keep a supply of IV fluid bags that are empty
2. Cut off end with nozzle for drip set
3. Cut small holes around what will be the top
4. Thread a gauze line through it or old IV line and then use that as a bootie that 'laces' at the top for when pet goes out ON A LEASH! 
5. Take off bootie when indoors
6. Instruct and consider providing owner with supplies, such as hospital’s tape
(Several tapes don't breathe; duct tape is one of them (electric tape, waterproof white tape, etc.) Moisture gets under there and Pseudomonas can develop
Practicing bandaging is easier than you think!
1. Swimming pool “noodles” be molded with duct tape to form a good dog arm to practice wrapping
2. You can carve into them to make curves, and then use duct tape to bend an elbow, tarsus or knee shape
3. Take a sliver of the foam and create a cat leg or a whole noodle for a horse leg
Padding
1. Use correct amount to cushion lightly and allow for some absorption (bandage or cast rubs worse if padding is thick)
2. Think of it this way: with a thick sock and tight shoe, you are more likely to get a blister, but if an appropriate sock is worn, to protect from the edge of the shoe, you will be less likely to get a blister.
Stirrups are essential to any bandage
1. Stirrups should be placed directly on the limb
2. 1" tape preferred (1/2" for skinny legs) sticky side to the fur
3. Do NOT cover any open wounds or over pads preferably
4. A single stirrup is ok but 2 are better (minimizes twisting or rotation)
5. Stirrup should be long enough to go from top of bandage (most proximal point) to the tip, and back again 
6. Wrap first contact layer over the stirrup, then the second,
7. As third layer is incorporated, twist stirrup so sticky side goes down on tertiary layer and is incorporated into third layer of bandaging
8. Never skimp on your stirrups!
Follow Up
1. There is an art to bandaging, but the discipline can be learned with practice
2. Try to be the one to follow up on bandage rechecks and replacements so you can observe firsthand what is happening with bandage
3. Use quality bandaging materials (cheap materials = cheap bandage = expensive problems!)
4. Always provide owner education and be available to help with questions or problems
The Clinical Textbook for Veterinary Technicians, 6th Ed. (2006), by McCurnin and Bassert  has great pictures and examples of different types of bandages.
 October 3, 2008 (published)
Nanette Walker Smith, M.Ed., RVT, CVT, LVT